Algonquin - Western Uplands Backpacking Trail - October 2017

As mentioned in my 2016 post on the Algonquin Western Uplands backpacking trail, I had planned to complete the trail again in 2017 without suffering the same knee and foot injuries. I succeeded in this, and attribute this to:

• Pacing myself for the long haul. I over-reached on the previous trip, in some cases from frustration. Going in knowing what to expect over the long run makes a difference.
• Better, larger boots. Specifically, Scarpa Zanskar GTX in a EU size 46. This is roughly equivalent to a US size 13 and is therefore about 1 full size larger than I'd normally wear. Very good boots, and kept the water out on what was a much wetter and muddier trail than it was in 2016.
• Heel lock lacing pattern to keep my heel from slipping in the larger boots. Combined with some grease rubbed on my heel each day for anti-friction (I normally use Burt's Bees Hand Salve but for this trip used a Burt's Bees lip balm stick due to the much smaller weight/size), I avoided heel blisters for the first time on a backpacking trip.

There's not much else to add about this trip, as it was largely a repeat of the 2016 route with largely the same gear with some things left behind 35lbs of equipment, which was down to 25lb by the end (due to food and fuel consumption).

Some notes on relative difficulty:

• Day 1: Entry to Maggie Lake E: Average difficulty.
• Day 2: Maggie Lake E to Pincher Lake N: Second most challenging day. Shorter distance but more terrain variation.
• Day 3: Pincher Lake N to Brown's Lake: Longest distance but counteracted by less variable terrain. This was the only day it rained significantly and when the first picture below was taken.
• Day 4: Brown's Lake to Susan Lake: This was the hardest day and where my feet suffered the most.. The trail is narrow and slanted in many places as well as being rocky or laden with tree roots, increasing the friction between your shoes and feet.
• Day 5: Susan Lake to Exit: I had an overwhelming memory of the 5th day being easier from the previous trip, but I must have been remembering the relief offered by the final few kilometres. The early part of this stretch is as challenging as the rest of the trail.

There aren't any grand lookouts on this trail, but I've attached some pictures from along the way.

Algonquin - Highlands Backpacking Trail - May 2017

Following last year's mosey around Algonquin Western Upland Backpacking Trail, in May 2017 I did the Highlands Backpacking Trail. This trail is shorter than the Western Upland trail and so this trip was only 3 days instead of 5 days for the former trail.

My write-up of the previous trail contains a lot more detail and I did most of the same things this time through, as well as followed all of the things I said I'd want to change on my next backpacking trip.

Trail closure
Both of the large backpacking trails opened much later than normal this season due to the late thaw and prolonged periods of rain that Ontario experienced in early 2017 (also linked to record-setting levels in Lake Ontario). The trails were flooded as a result and the trip was delayed until May 17th, which was the first day of the trail being open.

There were quite a few fallen trees blocking the trail along the way, and some muddy sections, but none of these were a problem.

Insects
Because of the late start, this increased the risk of running into the region's notoriously annoying insect season (blackfly and then mosquitoes). Ultimately, there were a lot of blackfly and a smaller number of mosquitoes, but the blackfly were not biting in large numbers and were more of a swarming nuisance (near the lakes only) than a literal pain.

Spring backpacking
This was my first time backpacking in Spring. Combined with the late onset of spring, there were a couple of interesting features:

• Cold overnight temperatures: very cold and damp following a major thunderstorm passing through ahead of a cold air mass and then down to near-freezing the following night.

• Leaves not fully out on the deciduous trees: in the deciduous parts of the forest, this meant that the trails were exposed to the sun where they would normally have been in near full shade.

Gear
After last year's trip and the resulting knee and foot injuries, I made the following changes:

• Regular daily knee exercises

• Being more conscious of how I am using my knee while hiking: it wasn't even on my mind on the previous hike. I used it however was most expedient.

• Larger, proper backpacking boots: Scarpa Zanskar GTX. Nothing bad to say about these. They did well in the wet sections and after breaking them in for weeks ahead of the trip, they fit and wore well. I got a slightly larger boot (EU size 46 where I would normally wear US 11.5) and found that while these were a bit loose at the beginning of the day, when my feet were at "hiking size" after some activity they fit very well. They were heavier than my light trail boots and didn't vent as well, but that seems like an unavoidable tradeoff.

• Better socks: last time, I wore cotton sports socks which was a mistake as they are both abrasive and take a long time to dry out. This time, I had a pair of very thin synthetic nylon liner socks as well as a Darn Tough light blended merino wool hiking sock. I didn't find that the liner socks made a big difference and stopped wearing them after day 1. The wool socks were more comfortable overall. Combined with the larger boot, I didn't have any sole or toe blisters. I did nearly get heel blisters but I'm starting to thing that is a physiological thing that I'll have to deal with with moleskin or something similar.

Overall, for one reason or another these were all of benefit. I didn't feel any oncoming knee issues after Day 3 and my feet were still in good condition. However, though it's wasn't what's normally classified as an "easy" or "moderate" trail in Ontario Provincial Park nomenclature, I'm not sure the trail was as challenging as Western Upland.

Itinerary

• Day 1: trail head to east end of Provoking Lake

• Day 2: Provoking Lake to Head Lake

• Day 3: Head Lake to trail head

Day 1 thunderstorm

A significant thunderstorm rolled through at the end of Day 1 which gave quite a lashing of rain. This revealed known problems with my MSR Hubba tent, where the inner fly coating has deteroriated and lets water through. However, this sort of thing is only a serious problem during incessant rain rather than large volumes in a short time, and there were opportunities to dry things out on Day 2.

So, a new tent may be in order for the next trip. If I can confirm that the fly is better-made in the newer MSR Hubba models then I may get the same again - it is a very good backpacking tent that is easy to setup, fits into small spaces, and is relatively light.

Compared to Western Upland in September

As with the Western Upland trail, the visible wildlife was quite minimal, though there was plenty of audible wildlife. No bears; no moose; lots of birds, and some close-up loons.

The terrain did not seem to be quite as challenging as Western Upland, though there were definitely constant elevation changes that turn the 14km you'd in 2-3 hours in the flat land of the GTA into something significantly longer.

The days are longer in May - about 1 hour extra on each end. However, the nights were significantly colder. Last year's WU trip ran into an unusually warm September - low-mid 20C in the day and low teens at night. This trip was cooler during the day and much cooler at night - getting to near-freezing overnight after Day 2.

Next time

I can't think of much else I'd do differently next time through, which is a pretty good result. I would use something to guard against heel blisters, but that is about all.